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City Market-Luling, Texas

5/4/2025

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Shirley Everett-Dicko
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May is National BBQ Month and a perfect time to finish writing my BBQ restaurant reviews from my birthday trip to Texas.  
If you remember Gatlin’s BBQ in Houston was our first stop. Our second stop on the trip was to City Market in Luling, Texas. This was a unique dining experience.  It was not just the thick cut of meat that my mom would chop our hands off for because she believed that brisket should be tender and sliced thinly; But it was the service also. The people, and the cooks, let us just say, ’They Not Like Us!​”    

First, we were welcomed by a nice young man with a dazzling smile. He was the only Black person in the restaurant until we came in. He asked if it was our first time there and proceeded to show us how to order.  He directed us to a closed door at the end of the room to choose our meat. We then would come back to him for the side dishes and drinks.  
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As we walked toward the closed door, I noticed a sign over the ATM machine that caught my eye. It read “Autism acceptance. We believe in a spectrum of possibilities.”  I thought that was cute.  It reminded me of the many signs we have plastered on the walls at our restaurant in Berkeley, California.   

At the back of the restaurant were two doors and not one. There was one for in and another for out according to the sign that was taped on each. There was another sign on the door marked “in” that instructed us to close the door behind us. It had a neon Bud Light BBQ sign hanging above it and a dark menu board below it. There was another neon Budweiser sign over the door for exit.  Beef Brisket was the first item on the menu board priced for $23 per pound.  Pork ribs were next for $23 per pound. You could also buy a box of 25 ribs for $55.  Hot sausages were $3 each and a box of 35 was $77 dollars.  Cold sausages were $2.50 each and a box of 50 for $110 dollars. Also on the menu board was hours of operation. They were open Mon-Sat 10-6pm and anything ordered after 5:45pm was for takeout only. 
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Aiesha and Hassan Dicko at City Market
I followed son, Hassan and daughter, Aiesha into a smoke-filled room. It was a tiny room with a large brick pit on the back wall.  Behind the counter stood three men ready to take our order. I noticed the big wooden, stand-alone chopping block in the middle of the floor. It was like the one we used in the 70’s, before new health department rules made us change to the white poly cutting boards, so wood chips would not get in your food- makes sense.  The tiny room felt claustrophobic. I could hardly breathe because the smoke was so thick. I at once felt sorry for the three men having to work in this environment and wondered how often the shift changed.    

I must confess I had never bought BBQ from a non-Black person before. The three men working behind the counter were not Black.  The older man and shorter of the three took our order.  He seemed a little agitated and impatient with us, maybe because we were first-timers and took a little longer than they were used to.   
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Shirley Everett-Dicko at City Market
We ordered a pound of brisket, ribs and a hot sausage. The Cutter sliced off thick slices of beef brisket and chopped off a few meaty ribs from a slab, placed it on pink butcher paper and handed it to the older man who weighed it.  A hot sausage was added along with three extra sheets of butcher paper that would serve as our plates. The cashier charged my son’s credit card.   

We took our order and quickly exited the dark room. We found an empty six-foot-long table with folding metal chairs in the front of the restaurant to sit. Aiesha went to order some side dishes and drinks as we sat down. She came back with three slices of white bread, some potato salad and baked beans in white 12-ounce Styrofoam food containers, pickles, three cans of cokes, and plastic spoons, forks, knives, and napkins. 

 We each took a piece of the pink butcher paper and placed it in front of us. Then we each took a piece of meat from the pile in the center of the table and used the plastic forks to dip potato salad onto our paper plates. This truly was a no-frills dining experience. And our Everett and Jones Barbeque customers used to complain about the Dixie paper plates we served our BBQ on in the 1970s and 1980s before we made enough money to upgrade to Styrofoam, three compartment containers.  Here we were literally eating off paper in 2025.  

The meat was good and tender. I noticed the sign on the table that said please leave the BBQ sauce on the table but there was no sauce on the table. So, I asked for sauce and the nice young man brought a bottle over to our table.  I am team BBQ sauce! I tried some of the sauce on a piece of my beef.  It was tangy.  I believe a good BBQ sauce can set you apart from other BBQ restaurants. This sauce was just ok. I did as the sign said and left the sauce on the table.  
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Not only do I BBQ for a living, but I BBQ every chance I get in my backyard when the weather is good. In California we have exceptionally pleasant weather, so meat cooked over fire with wood is kind of my thing. I know that different does not make a thing better.  It is simply different, and we are free to, like whatever we like, and variety is the spice of life. 

 BBQ cultures and traditions have co-existed for centuries and I am sure they will continue. It is one of the oldest forms of cooking and it's not going anywhere. From this Black woman’s perspective and based on my lived experiences working in my family’s 52 years old barbeque restaurants I have learned that you do not have to minimize another culture's differences and traditions to elevate your own.  

The romanticized version of Texas BBQ as the gold standard that has flamed across the country, and pit itself against other cultures is quite different from the Black BBQ culture I grew up in on 7th Street in West Oakland, California in the 60’s. The Texas BBQ and culture I experienced on my birthday trip was good but to each its own and that is the point!  
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Hassan Dicko and Shirley Everett-Dicko
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Tobie Gene Levingston Way

3/18/2025

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On Saturday, March 15th the founder and first president of the East Bay Dragons Motorcycle Club of Oakland, California had a street named after him, Tobie Gene Levingston Way. The East Bay Dragons are Oakland legends and Tobie Gene is legendary! 
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The man, the myth, the legend
Tobie Gene and the East Bay Dragons were our first customers.  It was Memorial Day weekend in 1973; the East Bay Dragons were hosting their annual Memorial Day family picnic at Robert’s Park in Oakland.  Tobie Gene paid us to cook all the BBQ for the picnic that first year and for many years afterwards. 
 
I was there to honor the man, the myth, the legend and celebrate with our first customers, the East Bay Dragons M/C.  You can read all about Tobie Gene, the Dragons, and Everett and Jones here www.everettandjones.com/saucy-sisters-blog/tobie-gene-the-dragons-everett-and-jones
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Women's History Month

3/8/2025

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Gatlin's BBQ-Houston, Texas

2/27/2025

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By Shirley Everett-Dicko
We flew into Houston, Texas, picked up the rental car and went straight to Gatlin’s BBQ. A Black family-owned BBQ restaurant that had been open since 2010.  Greg Gatlin is the founder and owner, but his mother Mary was the true star.  My daughter Aiesha had mapped out a plan of which BBQ places to try and support for my birthday and Black History Month.  Gatlin’s BBQ was first on her list.     
 
We pulled up to the restaurant, parked the car and smelled wood burning, which is always a good sign. We were greeted by the cashier, a young Black woman. When we told her we were from Oakland, California, imagine our surprise when the cashier suddenly reached down under the counter and pulled out a jacket with the words Oakland, 1966, and a picture of a Black Panther written on the back that she had recently bought.  Hell yeah! Power to the people! Oakland was already in the house. We had come to the right place. 


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I ordered about everything on the menu: pork ribs, beef brisket, links, chicken, pulled pork, potato salad, collard greens, fried okra, mac and cheese, beans, and sweet tea.  The food was delicious, and the portions were a decent size. We had eaten all we could and had to ask for some to go containers. We had so many leftovers that my children forbade me from ordering when we visited other BBQ restaurants.  I was told just to stand and keep quiet, ha ha. 
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Mrs. Mary and the staff sang happy birthday to me and gave me a bottle of their BBQ sauce.  Mrs. Mary told us that we were family so it must be true. This was a great start to my birthday week. We became family after eating at Gatlin’s BBQ.  I simply love this lady, her warm welcoming spirit, and that southern hospitality. 
My daughter Aiesha and Regina, the cashier’s name, exchanged phone numbers and agreed to meet up when she came to Oakland. 
When you visit Houston make sure you stop by and support this amazing family and their business.  Say hi to Mrs. Mary for me. 
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Hassan (BJ), Shirley, Regina, Aiesha, and Mrs. Mary
www.gatlinsbbq.com/
www.instagram.com/gatlinsbarbecue/
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Sam's BBQ - Austin, Texas

2/25/2025

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By Shirley Everett-Dicko
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I had such a fun experience at this iconic black owned barbeque restaurant in Austin’s historically Black neighborhood in Texas. It should be a law against having this much fun ordering BBQ. It was one of my favorite ordering experiences in Texas.  With many faded pictures on the wall you could tell that this was going to be an authentic, old school, slap your mama good eating’ place; and it did not disappoint.  It was Hella good!  
I love a good BBQ origin story. Sam’s BBQ has been around since 1957 and is currently owned and operated by Brian Mays.  According to an interview on March 22, 2019, on Decibel KLRU-TV, Austin PBS Brian’s father Dan Mays Sr., won the restaurant from his cousin the original owner, Sam Campbell in a gambling game when Sam bet the restaurant and lost.   
Sam’s meat is smoked in an indoor brick pit, like Everett and Jones, over oak wood, again like ours, and has a tomato base BBQ sauce, what a coincidence, just like ours. Damn! You ain’t heard it from me, and I ain't one to gossip, but the Great Migration of Blacks leaving the south and settling in the west like Oakland, California keeps getting in the way of the narrative that Texas style BBQ is unique to Texas. I’m just saying.  
I did not know it at the time, but it was Brian’s younger brother David who fixed our order of pork ribs and links combo, with potato salad, mac and cheese. I just loved bullshitting with David.  It was just so spontaneous, and I did not tell him who I was.  He was such a hilarious character.   
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David and Shirley
Brain's daughter and granddaughter opened the "Daiquiri Factory" next door where my son and daughter hung out. The daiquiris were delicious and went great with our BBQ.  Sam's BBQ is on social media. Check out the videos and when in Austin go by and support this family owned and operated black business.   What a legacy!   
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MAMA E's BAR-B-QUE - Fort Worth, Texas

2/23/2025

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By Shirley Everett-Dicko
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Mama E’s Bar-B-Que & Home Cooking
Ernestine Edmond 
Owner/Pitmaster 
Fort Worth, Texas   

My smile started before we parked the car. When my son BJ opened the door to Mama E’s Bar-B-Que restaurant in Fort Worth, Texas and held it open for me and his sister Aiesha to enter, my smile burst into a full-blown wide-ass grin. I was grinning from ear to ear.  The restaurant reminded me of our Oakland Fruitvale Avenue location which opened in 1975.   
We walked up to the plexiglass covered counter and told the young Black girl, who turned out to be the great granddaughter of the owner and pitmaster, to give us a minute as we checked out the menu. We told her that it was our first time here, that we were from Oakland, California, and that we used Google to find her, and wanted to try her barbeque and support her during Black History Month.  
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Ernestine Edmond, Hassan (BJ) Dicko, La'niyah, and Shirley Everett-Dicko, Photos by Aiesha Dicko
The older woman in the kitchen area heard us. She opened the door from the kitchen and came out to the lobby.  Automatic, with no hesitation, she embraced me, and held tightly on to my hand, my heart was full.  Ernestine Edmond introduced herself and her great granddaughter, La’niyah. She told us that she was 74 years old and was teaching her great granddaughter the BBQ traditions her mother had taught her, so she can pass the traditions on to the next generations.    
Legacy and a Black female pitmaster, I had hit the jackpot with my choice of adding Mama E’s Bar-B-Que to our tour of Texas BBQ restaurants in honor of Black History Month and my Birthday. Here in the male dominated world of Texas BBQ pitmasters I had found a Black Pearl, a real live, Bonafide, Black female pitmaster in Texas.  See, we are out there and serving some great BBQ. 
Ernestine said that she was born in Texas. Ernestine’s smoking method using a brick pit, some oak wood, and adding BBQ sauce on your smoked meat confirmed for me that our Black BBQ culture followed us from the south to the west coast during the Great Migration and on to Oakland, California. We ordered a combo of pork ribs and links, potato salad and beans, with mild sauce. The ribs were tender and very good, the links were tasty, and the hospitality and neighborhood Black history lesson Ernestine shared about her corner location and the surrounding neighborhood were priceless. Mama E’s Bar-B-Que & Home Cooking restaurant is a Historic Southside site. 
​We had to get our food to go because we had to meet a friend in Irving, Texas for brunch to celebrate my birthday. When I told Ernestine it was my birthday, she gave me one of her homemade mini cakes, which was delicious, and a t-shirt. I encourage everyone visiting Fort Worth to add Mama E’s Bar-B-Que & Home Cooking to your list. 
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Fort Worth Magazine January 2018 - page 59
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DNA Story Update

1/27/2025

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Yesterday I spoke to the 4th great grandson of a slave owner that had enslaved some of our relatives. So, what did y’all do yesterday?  Cousin Desi, you need to call me! 
 
Cousin Desi did call me last night and we talked until we both were too sleepy to concentrate. So, here is the back story. Remember that time I took a DNA test and traced my enslaved fifth great-grandparents, Joe & Jenny McLean, to a small town in North Carolina called Barbecue. And remember when Cousin Desi did all that family history research on Joe and Jenny McLean and brought over 100 DNA cousins together, some he found on Ancestry.com like me, to his first DNA Family Fest in North Carolina in 2023.  Well, one of the daughters of Joe and Jenny, Lucy McLean, was bought or sold and ended up in Newton, Mississippi.  Lucy married Richard Chapman, and they had a bunch of kids. The 4th great grandson of the slave owner who we believed was the father of Richard Chapman contacted me on Ancestry and left his telephone number for me to call him. 
 
Y’all, know I called him.  His name is Jerry Mason, and he lives in Quitman, Mississippi.  He is a retired historian.  He was genuinely nice, and we laughed a lot.  He was also very frank and said that his 4th great grandfather William Albert Chapman Sr. born in 1780, in North Carolina, had fathered many children from his enslaved women.  William Albert Chapman Sr. died in 1858 in Wayne County, Mississippi. Our ancestor Richard Chapman was listed in Jerry’s family tree as a half sibling to his 4th great grandfather William’s children.  Jerry wanted to know if I had any information on his ancestor’s slaves.  We agreed to text each other and share any information we had. 
 
While I had Jerry on the phone I asked if he had any information about the Howze families that had lived in Wayne County and in Shubuta. I told him that I was trying to find information about my great grandmother Florence Howze. He said that he had just spoken to a lady who was a descendant of a Howze family, and he gave me a name which I plan to follow up with. 
 
Cousin Desi Campbell produced the DVD documentary “A Slave Named Jenny” last year.  Desi and cousin Deena Hill will be presenting their research about Jenny and how they met and worked together to document and tell our ancestor’s story at this year’s Family Search RootsTech March 6-8, 2025, in Salt Lake City, Utah. Watch the video below for more info.  

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A Slave Named Jenny ​
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Please Come Home For Christmas

12/19/2024

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Reprint from Dec 8, 2023 
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​“Ring, Ding, Ring
Bells will be ringin’
The sad, sad news”
​“Ohhhh, what a Christmas 
To have the Blues

My baby’s gone”
​​“I have no friends
To wish me greeting, 
once again”
​Blues singer Charles Brown became a part of our family.  His record “Please Come Home For Christmas” would be played on repeat from Thanksgiving Day throughout Christmas Day. If you ask any one of the grandchildren they can sing the entire song including the lead guitar instrumental interlude. It is seared in our brains. There was a time when we’d cover our ears trying to escape; now we can’t wait to hear it played to signify the beginning of the season.

​My earliest memory of Christmas was the smell of Sweet potato pies baking in the oven, Charles Brown bellowing “Please Come Home For Christmas”, grandma in the kitchen, aunts, cousins, friends, and friends of friends all crowding in my grandmother’s 2000 sq. ft. home.  This is how we spent Christmas growing up. Those were the good ole days that I thought about while serving overseas in the Navy and what I think of now as I live in North Carolina with my own family. It was always a special time for me and our Everett & Jones Family.

It wasn’t just because of the gathering it was also because the restaurants were closed and that was a reason to celebrate. They were only closed two days out of the year-Thanksgiving and Christmas. It was one of two times when we didn’t have to worry about what was going on at the restaurant, or who would go and lock up. We didn’t think about ribs, beef, chicken, or links (nor was it on our Christmas dinner menu). No one had to go and make sauce or get supplies. This was one day we could spend as a family, and you could feel the sense of relief in the air.

But while everyone else was relaxing there were still a faithful few who were busy working away in the kitchen to help prepare the Christmas dinner. Dinner most often consisted of Turkey, Ham, cornbread dressing, gravy, cranberry sauce, yams, green & cabbage, cornbread, Auntie Angie’s Macaroni and cheese, Auntie Helen or May’s Banana Pudding, grandma’s delicious sweet potato pies, and my little cousin Auzerais’ infamous cookies and cupcakes. Ever since she was little Auzerais started baking cookies and cupcakes to share at Christmas dinner. Let’s just say that they were desserts that only a mother could love–and eat. 
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“Choirs will be singing, 
Silent Night
Christmas carols

by candlelight”
​​“Please come home for
Christmas, If 
not for Christmas,
​by New Years night”
"Friends and relations
Send salutations”
​I know that every family thinks that theirs is special, but mine really is. I have seven aunts: Virginia, Dorothy, Shirley, Mary, Helen, Katie, and Angie, one uncle Allen, my grandmother, and of course, my parents Annie Pearl Everett Jones and James Jones, who started the chain of Everett & Jones Barbeque restaurants in 1973 in the middle of a recession. Someone forgot to tell my family that you don’t start businesses in the heart of recession, but they did it anyway and beat the odds. They took the same tenacity to make Christmas a special time for us.

I’m the second oldest grandchild behind my cousin Lamont (Monty), who is only 5 months older and I remember the good ole times around Christmas. When I was younger, I remember going to grandma’s with my family: my mother, father, brother (James Jones Jr. aka Scooter), and little sister LaShaun in our pajamas. The plan was for the entire family to spend the night on Grandma’s living room floor while waiting for Santa Claus to arrive. I could hardly wait until everyone was there because that’s when the real fun began. Every cousin came wearing the same smile, the same twinkling eye- the same excitement. No one ever complained about being there.  We’d make bed pallets on the living room floor with our blankets and pillows. The Aunties would hang around with us initially playing games, and making us laugh, but slowly migrate into the kitchen with grandma leaving us grandkids to entertain ourselves. It never failed that a grown-up would threaten to light the fireplace so Santa could not come down causing us to sing in unison NOOOOOO!

On a few occasions, they would get one of the employees to dress up like Santa and come through the door yelling, “Merry Christmas!” We weren’t fooled though because they always smelled of smoke- like they’d just gotten off work. “That’s Red” someone would yell, or “Russell.”  My mother even dressed as Santa one year, I guess she thought she could do a better job than the men, but she didn’t because my sister gave it away when she started crying, “Mama.” But hey, she tried.

Right when we were about to fall asleep one of the aunts would come through the door after working the late shift at the restaurant. They would still be wearing a dirty red or black apron, smeared makeup up, and a charred-smelling afro. Nothing says Christmas in the Everett & Jones family like Charles Brown, Sweet Potato pie, and a charred-smelling Afro.
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Shirley, Mary, Dorothy Jr., Angie, Katie, Pearl, Virginia, and Helen. 1973
“Sure as the stars shine above.
This is Christmas, Christmas my dear, the time of year to be with the one you love”
​“So, want you tell me,
You’ll never more roam
Christmas and New Year’s 
will find
​you home”
​Just like the restaurants, Grandma Dorothy Turner Everett, Head Chief in Charge, also headed this kitchen crew in her home. She was a hard-working woman, who never stopped. Grandma could always be found in the kitchen either sitting at the table picking the meat off of cooked chicken necks and gizzards for her homemade dressing, or stirring in one of several pots. By the time we’d arrived she had accosted plenty of help in the kitchen. One was chopping bell peppers, onions, and celery, another peeling mounds of sweet potatoes, while another was trying to stay on top of the dirty dishes that were rapidly piling up. This was often Auntie Katie’s job and she’d fuss the whole time. If you were smart you stayed clear of the kitchen because they would quickly find you something to do.

Grandma had managed to cook about 30 sweet potato pies by Christmas Eve, which were strategically placed throughout the kitchen and dining room so she could watch them. She’d only let us eat the “ugly ones” on Christmas Eve, ones that were burnt around the edges or had either gotten damaged during the process.

As some things changed others never did.  Someone is always coming through the door with a dirty apron, a smeared smutted face and charred Afros, jerry curls, or a weave in this family. There are always Sweet Potato pies scattered throughout somebody’s kitchen and dining room and The last time at Grandma’s house, Auntie Katie was still fussing about washing dishes, and Auntie Helen still carted away leftovers in Tupperware dishes.  However one thing did change, my cousin Auzerais no longer serves us indescribable-looking cookies and cupcakes. She went on to culinary school and received a Bachelor of Science degree in culinary science. We like to remind her that we endured the hard times together with her desserts. Through the process, we all smiled and encouraged her all the while inconspicuously discarding them in a napkin.  Look at her now Blondery  
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Christian, Christopher, Glenn, Auzerais, Shirley, Helen, and Aiesha.
​“There’ll be no more sorrow
No grief and pain

​And I’ll be happy, happy once again”
​“Oohh, there’ll be no more sorrow
No grief and pain”
​Eventually, the family grew too big to sleep on grandma’s floor and she kicked us out to sleep at our own homes and instead come the next day. We got too big to eat around the dining room table, kitchen table, and kids table, so they moved it outside under the extended carport at a 30 ft. long table, which was dressed for the festivities. We didn’t care where we ate, just as long as we're together. Eventually, we outgrew the carport and moved it to the Everett & Jones Barbeque restaurant in Jack London Square because it was the only place big enough to hold us.  
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The rooms where it happened, Mom's house.
​And, I’ll be happy, happy once again” .
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Now we’re all grown up with families of our own, and Grandma is no longer with us. Some of us are struggling to recreate the memories of the past, while others are taking on new ones. Let me encourage you to remember your family this year. We have everything we need to survive- Jesus Christ, good food, love, and family. Most importantly, let’s remember why we celebrate this season. No, it’s not because the restaurants are closed although that’s good too, but it is the fact that God loved us so much that He sent us a Savior that we might be saved. Grandma was good and did a wonderful job, but it is because of God’s grace and mercy that we are blessed beyond measure. Don’t take it for granted. It’s not just a cliché that He is the reason for the season because He is. We are family-the Everett & Jones Barbeque family. Merry Christmas family I love you.


Be Blessed,

Yvette Jones-Hawkins
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Best Secret Santa Gift Exchange Idea

12/3/2024

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Photo History of Everett and Jones Barbeque "Super Q" Sauce"

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This is Why I Vote

10/23/2024

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​This is why I vote! My 2nd great grandfather Isaac Everett registered to vote in 1867 in Alabama. Two years after Reconstruction ended he was a poll worker in the Presidential election of 1880.  I honor his legacy every time I vote.
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    The Everett sisters organized a bus trip to the 1st President Obama inauguration
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    Sharing photos of the 1st President Obama inauguration.
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    Everett sisters Dorothy, Helen, Mary and Shirley @Jack London Square restaurant planning the "We Believe Get on the Bus" trip to witness history - 1st Obama inauguration.
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